Yarn Tips

Over the years I found that I did not get the structured look I wanted, no matter the pattern I followed. Here are my rules that I now swear by. They are mostly applicable to positive ease sweaters and tops. Think grandpa sweaters and vintage slipovers. If that’s not what you’re into, these tips are not for you.

Knit at a tight gauge. Whether this means knitting at a tighter gauge than the pattern or choosing a thicker yarn, a denser knit is gonna hang completely different from a loosely knitted garment. This blog has been very helpful to decipher how much drape a certain yarn and gauge will give me.

No mohair. If you want structured sweaters, the fluff is going to make the knit structure less visible and add drape.

No superwash. Superwash yarn is so easily accessible to buy, wash and work with, but my knitting happiness increased so much once I realized superwash yarn was my issue. It does not give me the boxy silhouette I want, as I find it hangs too much. I avoid at all costs. However, I’ve seen firsthand how beautiful garments were created using it. Just a thing to consider. 

No alpaca, silk, viscose or bamboo. They all add drape. Especially silk has the tendency to stretch out and not stretch back. 

Yes to nylon and sock yarn. If I’m recreating a vintage pattern, I’ve found DK sock yarn to be a great substitute to give me that structured silhouette. I often use Novita Brothers. I don’t prefer it for skin-to-skin though. 
Guernsey Sweater, knit by Texel